Review of Terroirs - April 2010

Where: Terroirs, Covent Garden With whom: The Banker and The Maven How much?: the bill was whisked away before I could see it, but I'd estimate £40 a head with wine 


A lunch to talk about the Slow Food movement, where else could it be held? The organisation is fascinating, a rapidly growing federation of groups dedicated to pushing the Slow Food agenda and promoting the enjoyment and protection of locally produced food and styles of cooking. Entering the restaurant, despite the beautiful sunshine outside, I was shown down to the very back room of their basement restaurant. I'm sure it's gorgeous of a winter evening, but really not what you want on a sunny Friday afternoon and so I was very glad when the Maven arrived, took charge and demanded that we move back upstairs.

 

The wine bar menu is short, though not annoyingly so, I'd eat anything on here. There are around 10-12 small plates and then another 4 Plats du Jour. We started with a shared plate of large, gently flavoured, almost sweet Cantabrian anchovies (from the region around Santander). Taken with a thick layer of butter and thinly sliced shallot on brown sourdough toast, they were a very worthy start. 

  

Of note, the Maven went for the whole Dorset crab, which looked to be a beautiful beast, but was served undressed (and this unmentioned in the menu or by the wait staff). It's not the biggest deal, and by the appreciative noises from the other side of the table seemed to be worthwhile, though it's certainly worth knowing before you order.


The pork caillette for my main was a great call. It's a rustic pâté of pork, herbs and spinach wrapped in a thin intestine like a sausage or a squat haggis that comes from the Ardeche region of Southern France. Oven cooked and served with a thick, salty gravy, crushed potatoes and julienned carrots roast in (no doubt a locally sourced) honey it was a satisfyingly solid meal. 

With the talking, and the appropriately summery Corbieres, one star among many on a wine list I'll be back at very soon, we passed on desserts and, eventually, waddled off into the late afternoon sun.