Do you know who I am?

Watching a recent fracas between Michelin starred chef Claude Bosi and self proclaimed 'critic' James Isherwood, it was hard to see anyone coming out of it well.* 

On one level, it seemed that a potty mouthed, self important chef was using Twitter to bully a very amateur food blogger with a few dozen followers following a middling review on a social media site. 

From another view, an online relationship had been developed and then taken advantage of by someone pretending to be a genuine writer, looking for special treatment and service before biting the hand that feeds and enjoying the ensuing media backlash. In short, handbags at dawn.

Frankly, other than as an amusing five minute story, it offered little else, though did spark a number of conversations about the relationships between reviewer and reviewed in the creative sectors. 

When it comes to live entertainment, books and restaurants, there are some rules followed by most professionals. You don't review before it's ready (press night or the end of soft launch), you tell the truth, do a modicum of fact checking, you review in full sentences without (too many) grammatical errors and you're expected to have at least some understanding of the context of the work in the wider sector. In short, you're a good guest. These are (generally) people's dreams you're talking about after all.

Other than that, it's part of a big game. A thousand chefs, producers, actors and owners and their PRs will be hard at work generating copy, word of mouth and that oh so elusive buzz. A recent study, sponsored by Yelp (unsurprisingly) found that an extra star rating level on the social review site added 5-9% more bookings**... 

There are armies of writers, editors and bloggers trying to sample, critique, share and dissect this work. It's mostly a mutually beneficial dance, when performed by people who stick to the rules. And there's no way that it's going to get any less complicated as time goes by.

So when I get an email from a PR representing a restaurant that I think I'd enjoy, I tend to send something back along the lines of: "Thanks for the interest, I'd be happy to come along, on proviso that I can book in myself, eat anonymously and choose if, when and what I write anything about it." 

If it's a cut and paste email, I send a cut and paste response, if they're read and engaged with the blog and send me a personal note, then I'll always respond personally. I've never solicited an invite and I've turned a lot down (sorry Strada... I really wasn't interested in your new autumn menu tasting).

It's lovely being invited to try nice for free, but it's not my day job, and not being my job, I get to chose if I do or don't. If it's not somewhere I'd eat, or they want to be able to manage my experience as a gratis piece of marketing collateral, I demur. I'll always write honestly, but I'll never write anything I wouldn't say to the staff if asked.

* Luke Mackay sums it up better than most 
** see, even though I'm not a proper journalist, I still try to check my facts properly...

3 comments:

  1. Try the intimate Chef Stevens place. The food is exquisite, and very reasonably priced. You've been before in Yorkshire. Nr Dewsbury.

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  2. Interesting... More details please!

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  3. Hi, do you write only about restaurant? because there is a place in Portman Village (Marble Arch) that i think you have to try.. they have Artisan Coffee…Homemade Food…Gourmet Frozen Yogurt and a raw downstairs with huge underground vaults and street art :-)

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