The search for spice continues, Viet Grill - Feb 2011

Where: Viet Grill, Shoreditch

Sometimes you need more than a roast dinner on a Sunday... I've spent most of February dreary craving the clean spicy notes of South East Asian cuisine. Partly because I've been a bit ill, partly due to a (slightly unusual) craving for healthier food and mainly because when done really well it's bloody lovely. All things considered then, it was inevitable I was going to end up on the bottom end of Kingsland Road at some point. Home to a concentrated community of Vietnamese expats along with the shops and particularly the restaurants that support them. For me, I've had some great times at Song Que, abrupt perfunctory service and canteen style decor aside. One of the other gems on the street is the Viet Grill, sister to popular Cay Tre in Old Street. There are another 4 or 5 that I've been recommended to over time too, it's almost enough to make you hug a hipster and spend more time in the East End.

It's more designed than many of the cheaper cafe options along the road, fishtanks built into the walls upstairs and down, a well designed bar area and rather garish wallpaper. The tables are plain dark wood, bottles of chilli sauce stood waiting, kept clean by constant turnover. Don't get me wrong, it's not as canteen-like as Song Que, but it's definitely not somewhere you can linger over a coffee.
We went for the Cà tím nướng and the Phở cuốn to start (all of the menu items have the original Vietnamese authentically written alongside, though you won't hear many of the slim jeaned trendies who mainly fill the place these days parlaying the tiếng Việt). In translation, a silken steaming pile of slowly braised aromatic aubergine topped with spicy, caramelised minced pork and thin noodle wraps with strips of beef steak and herbs. The porky aubergine was revelatory. One of the tastiest things I've eaten this year so far.

Our mains were more of a mixed call, though more of choice and judgement than quality of the food. Dr Vole went for the Pho. Hot, spicy and packed full of rice noodles and fragrant broth, it's the dish that keeps going. I went for the Tamworth pork belly, served in a caramelised coconut juice with a side of jasmine rice. Pleasant enough, with the subtle more-ish heat of star anise and a chilli kick in the coconut juice, the texture wasn't doing it for me. Fat braised down, skin of gelatine, maybe it's my expectation of pork belly. One or two of the quivering cubes served with a crunchy salad and side (some of the veg percolating in the pho would have done the trick), but as it was, it was a lonely single texture, and rather a lot of it. one to be avoided unless you're dining with a group.

Worth a note that there's a pre-six o'clock and lunch menu, great value at £6 for a large bowl of pho. That being said, a small bowl will do most people, and free you up for other choices on a menu of spicy delight.