Recent review of Bob Bob Ricard - Feb 2011

Where: Bob Bob Ricard, Soho
How much: £40 - £50 a head for 2 courses and drinks, though you can go much higher if you choose
With who: The Coastguard and Trouble
Come here if: you're in need of a dining experience that genuinely brightens your day

Where do you take a Grumbling Gourmet, an American on his first "since I could drink" trip to Europe and a bolshy pescatarian for a bite to eat after a few beers? With such diverse tastes to cater for, Bob Bob Ricard was an obvious choice. It was also directly across the street from our drinking den, the old faithful Old Coffee House) and so didn’t need much discussion.

Bob Bob Ricard has been gently settling into the London scene for nearly three years now. It wasn’t the softest of landings, due in part to a particularly exuberant launch menu which they attempted to run from breakfast - famously silver serving cornflakes and toast - to late night - a la Wolesley, a slightly unfair and unintended comparison. The reviews were weighted towards the positive, but wildly mixed, AA Gill described it as the worst opening of the year in an infamously acerbic roasting, Giles Coren was muted at best, Jay Rayner liked and while Marina O'Loughlin loved the ‘deliciously daft’ restaurant (along with several others), it certainly wasn’t universal positivity. 

They didn’t do themselves any favours with the relatively cosy cabal of top restaurateurs either. Their policy of ‘naming and shaming’ big wine mark ups at the top restaurants while guaranteeing no more than a £50 mark up was welcomed by the consumers of such big price tagged bottles, but drew fire elsewhere for highlighting the gross mark ups that are often charged. The proof is in the pudding (wine, they serve Chateau d' Yquem by the glass) and today they sell enormous amounts of wine at the £100 - £400 level that would cost you nearer £400 - £1600 in places like Hospital Road or Ducasse. Wonderful if you’re being entertained by a big city beast, mere mortals will feel safe with some solid choices (they really know their wines here) at the lower end of the spectrum or by the glass. Oh and they have a champagne button. A tableside button that summons champagne.

It’s the latter quirk that sums up the feel of the restaurant better than anything. Classy, with touches of madness. Moodily lit, marbled and packed with twists of colour, the pastel shades of the staff uniforms (pink soldier style jackets for the boys, blue waistcoats for the girls) should clash with the blue leather booths that divide the place like a large snug railway carriage, but they pull it off somehow. The room from the outside (or to the drunk) appears full of flitting birds of paradise, bobbing and weaving between the tables.

Following an instructive pre-Christmas lunch with charismatic owner Leonid (the ‘Bob Bob’ of the team) I was certainly going for one of the modern Russian starters I’d had before, with a palate cleansing vodka to bring out the flavour. As a combination it has the desired effect, leaving my taste buds ready for a creamy smooth Russian Salad, diced vegetables in thick, rich mayonnaise topped with slices of black truffle (not quite as Mother-ski would have made it, but close enough to provide a touch of home for any expat guests. They also offer herring, caviar, jellied ox tongue and pickled mushrooms (sadly no cornflakes anymore) accompanied by vodka and a range of more traditionally Western (though not specifically traditional) starters including an excellent tuna Nicoise carpaccio sampled tonight and a very good venison steak tartare. Mains similarly cross the divide between solid high end classics and Russian comfort food (the focus on the former), all cooked by a Brit. Several times I’ve been unable to tear myself from their excellent Chicken Kiev, served with a sweetcorn mash, oozing garlic through its poached then Panko crumb fried pores. 

They source well, cuts from legendary Knightsbridge meat master O’Shea’s make several appearances on the menu through an Onglet cut, a very good chateaubriand and a luxurious beef Wellington. Pescatarians fare well, with four or five solid (if not imaginative) fish options including a lobster and chips at a city beast budget of £39. Veggies less so. There’s only a single, sullen sounding cherry tomato and parmesan tarte fine, glaring down from the top of the menu like the only Goth in the room, ignored and moribund. 

Mains generally hit the £18 - £20 mark, with a few rising well above this, the house burger brings the average down, though add the obligatory fries in and you’re still looking at £18 for the plate. It is a fine burger though. The bar for top end meat patties has risen recently through the efforts of Hawksmoor, the sloppy authenticity of #Meateasy and the rise and rise of the Byron chain. BBR fits in well, though there are other options on the menu worth a look.

A slight faux pas with the bill aside, the good humoured staff are well drilled and friendly and the member’s club vibe extends to Bobby’s Bar in the basement, a perfect spot to wind down with guests after a long lunch or dinner. A solid, quirky option with well heeled friends or clients, much needed in a part of town stronger on more casual dining.