A guest post from Nico Polo - Russia

A very good friend of mine, Nico Polo, is taking advantage of a career change and spending nearly two months travelling through Russia, Mongolia and China on the Trans Siberian Railway. Jealousy doesn't even begin to describe it. 
He's writing a blog, which I do recommend you read, especially if you're thinking of doing the same thing or can see through his rather cunning nom (nom) de plume. 


Russia and the former Soviet states aren't renowned for their culinary niceties. It's a region most regularly characterised from the outside with a patronising stab at hearty peasant cuisine followed by a comment abut unidentified meat and dumplings. A check with a number of colleagues from the region reveals only slight evidence to the contrary. There were a few ex-pats waxing about the joys of pelmeni (meat-filled dumplings served with a dash of vinegar), salo (salted, unrendered pork fat presented like fine Spanish ham) and borscht, but by and large they weren't missing it. That being said, it's a region that covers a sixth of the globe, and as Nico is travelling across most of it, we're all hoping that he'll find something, somewhere that he can eat.

And since he's writing it anyway, I've commissioned him to add his foodie thoughts to the Grumbling Gourmet as an occasional series (I'm just hoping that it lasts longer than my attempt to eat with England in the World Cup). If you like it, have a look at the blog... 


"I've got to say that it's far better than expected so far, though some of the stereotypes are certainly there. Yes, Russian food is quite heavy in the main courses. Over boiled veg, meaty mains, very often breaded and all served at scorching temperatures. Before them, however, you do get some delightful salads and soups. The amusingly named Idiot in St Petersburg saw the first taste of cold Borsch with shredded hard boiled egg, soured cream and dill. After a (hot) night at the Kirov Ballet, it was the most refreshing thing one could possibly have eaten. A passable salad followed before a main of mushroom and potato rosti (a little heavy but delicious).  My intrepid travelling companion Sputnitza Dolly had a green salad followed by a heavy pasta dish with mixed veg. She lamented not having my borsch.
Moscow called and we went. In GYM (the former state department store) there is a retro-Soviet Canteen. This is an interesting experience of similarly stodgy food but quite atmospheric and ultimately, for those that don't speak Russian like myself and Sputnisa Dolly, self-service. Over boiled veg accompanied again though I had a terrific chicken kiev (told you it was retro!) and she had pork cutlet which was still tender. Salads again were a surprise smash with herring, beetroot and tomato.  Delicious dessert of sour cherry strudel was a winner. 
Finally, today, we hit the all you can eat Russian buffet, just off Red Square. Tasty, filling, uneventful but cheap - a first for Russian cities. My buffet i think trumped Dolly's Business Lunch set - though she did get beetroot salad (fast becoming a cooling favourite in the 38 degree heat) and I didn't. Beer knocked me out for the afternoon but hey ho. When in Russia drink like a Russian.
We went for the most delicious and expensive lunch at Cafe Pushkin. An old fashioned but unstuffy (actually there's nowhere in Moscow that is stuffy it would seem) place off Pushkin Square, round the corner from Patriach's Ponds. It was very good. 4 course each, wine, coffee and petits fours really rounded off the Moscow experience. It was good food - very Russian in style: starters of herring and an asparagus salad; soups of borsch and '24 hour sauerkraut'; both having pelmeni (russian meat filled dumplings a bit like heavier ravioli) followed by lovely, if slightly over the top, desserts and coffee. The Room was beautifully clad in plaster, with a fin de siecle lift and carved wood bar. We're off to get the train now, so not sure what the journey food will be like, here's hoping for some tasty fish round lake Baikal!"