A short review of Bodeans - July 2010

Where: Bodean's, Soho originally (and now also Clapham, Fulham and another couple)

I'm not quite sure why I'm putting a date against this one, and I'm certainly not putting people, the list would be way too long. Pretty much ever since I started working in Soho, the weak mid-morning cry of 'Bodean's?' on a Friday has been the dead giveaway of many a hangover. It's been there since 2002 pumping the area's media workers full of authentic(ish) BBQ treats and grumble as I may, I've got to say it does a pretty good job.

I'm not sure why BBQ, for that's what they serve, and serve well, is the ideal cure for the self inflicted wounds of school night drinking, but it's generally held that the hot and greasy will somehow make you feel better (see other exhibits here, the fry up, fish and chips, the Sausage and Egg Muffin and the bacon sandwich) at least in my version of the world. Similar to hair of the dog, there's the idea of a restorative shot of flavour, salt and some form of pork product will bring you back to normality.

The decor falls somewhere between sports bar and diner, long high communal tables in the middle, a full size fibreglass cow and TV screens everywhere. The downstairs resembles the kind of country club you'd expect to find in Happy Days. They have laminated menus and a selection of chipotles on every table, a witches brew of different condiments to anoint your meat. In short, it's not an ideal spot for a first date... unless he/she really likes meat.
Pay at the counter,grab your ticket and wait for them to holler your number (downstairs is waiter service, see, I told you it was like a posh country club). Your food is served on a plastic tray with a liner to soak up the juices. The few sides offered (fries, gherkins, slaw as you'd expect, beans come studded with more pig) are nothing special, just necessary to break up the monopoly of the main ingredient. Skip the burgers and 'salads' too. The first because you can get much better locally and the buns really don't measure up, the second because it's a BBQ restaurant. Man (or woman) up, the clue is in the title...

So how's the meat? That is after all the reason we're here right? Several species roost / roast here, chicken, beef (brisket) and pork, both ribs and 'pulled' pork shoulder. All cooked long and low in their oak smoked BBQ pit (disclaimer, never seen the pit, though would like to...) I've always been a fan of pulled meat, it's a simple concept that brings a real tenderness to some of the most surly and taciturn cuts. By marinading and roasting low for 8 or 9 hours you get the recalcitrant strands of muscle to fall apart into a juicy stringy mass. The South Americans use it as carnitas, served spicy with salsa and guacamole. Those north of the border prefer theirs slavered in vinegary BBQ sauce. 


This all comes in various combinations, all with sides, mostly under or around a tenner. The one sandwich I would think worth including is their inspired Soho Special, a heady mix of beef brisket, salty spicy 'que sauce and pulled pork which embraces the poor quality soft white bun like garments from its trailer trash roots and gets to work on your hangover / hunger in the manner of a character from a Johnny Cash song. 
Nothing Bodean's does will win fine dining awards. And they don't necessarily care. It's a simple, down to earth and relatively cheap spot. But they serve you more meat that you can cope with, and you cover it with a zingy chipotle sauce and after a long time chewing, you smile a simple meaty greasy smile and immediately lower your eyes to the rest of the plate, resolving that this time, definitely this time, you won't be beat.