Sunday 13 June 2010

Eating the World Cup - England v USA June 12

Where (in South Africa): USA v England, Rustenburg, Sat June 12, score 1-1 (poor sad Robert Green..)
Where (in London): For preference, Hawksmoor or Goodman, though I do look forward to trying the Soul Food Kitchen soon and you can't argue with a Bodean's BBQ fix.


Now if you follow the hypothesis of Matthew's rather lovely blog - It Ends With Dovi - and I advise that you do, it seems it must possible to eat the food of any nation in London. While Americans might not be as well served as the Italian, Indian or Chinese ex pats, I had assumed there must be some places they could get the taste of home. Expectation overpowers actuality. While there are lots of foodstuffs one associates with the States (the two best known examples are burgers and the simply served steak, while others may throw out chowders, tex mex and soul food), American cuisine is by definition a fusion of imigrants doing their best with the flavours of a recently settled nation. There are actually very few authentically 'American' restaurants to chose from.
There are however, vast numbers of steakhouses and burger joints that populate our fair city and some of these are worth some explanation here (with links to the restaurants and reviews where they exist).


The humble burger
There are some great examples available in London, including the best burger I've eaten outside the US (and possibly only second to In 'n' Out), the Classic Cheeseburger at Lucky Seven in Westborne Park Road. Other fine exponents include the off-menu brioche bun at Joe Allen (off menu, so the story goes, to avoid embarrassing the actors who can't afford to eat as much as their friends) and the near legenday Meatwagon (head over to Ibzo's messianic post here. He's a man who appreciates meat as much as me and sums it up very well. The last time the wagon rolled up at the Florence in Herne Hill, there were hour long queues. I blame it on Twitter...). The other two of real note are Hawksmoor and Goodman, more of which below.
On steak
Likewise, we're well served with steak, that other staple of American dining. Hawksmoor (my review here) is top of the list for me still, but recent experiences at Goodman (my review here) and Maze Grill prove there's stiff competition in this sector. All three do excellent burgers as well, though that's not really what you're there for... I'd avoid the Black and Blue chain (my review here) unless you're absolutely desperate, the other three are infinitely better and it almost goes without saying that you should never, ever walk into an Angus Steakhouse, unless you have to dine with someone you really dislike. 
The Diners
Where the diners exist, they're often just chain burger joints, and a real mixed bag, rather than the working class temple to short order chefs seen and expected across the states (see my review of New York's Viande for photos). There are none that standout as being exceptional, though I do have happy memories of boozy milkshakes at The Diner in Ganton Street. Exceptions
There are a few exceptions. The 'family-friendly' New Orleans 'themed' Big Easy in Chelsea is populated by teenage Sloanes and banker's with their young families neatly combining a large number of my dining prejudices, (or predjudi?). I have similar distain for the faux Tex Mex of the Texas Embassy on Trafalgar Square after an awful press night there. We have the tasty Bodeans BBQ restaurant chain, perfect for a Friday lunchtime 'Soho Special' (hot pulled pork and burnt beef brisket ends in a slightly too sweet BBQ sauce served in a sloppy bun). The other interesting option is Brondesbury's Soul Food Kitchen, Transport for London have transpired twice to keep me from it, but I will be trying the fried chicken, cornbread and mac and cheese (a vastly underrated carb-filled goldmine) soon.

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