I find it difficult to hide my distain of the chain. Identikit restaurants and hotels generally turn me off. Put it down to a dislike of homogenisation, a desire to support individual, local endeavours or just call me a reactionary, elitist old snob. I've often tried to justify it, talking about a dilution of brand values, lack of management attention or a focus on satisfying the supply chain over the customer but fundamentally I'm like a 14 year old boy witnessing 'his' underground music heroes sell out into the mainstream or an anti-Facebook, I just don't like thousands of other people liking what I like.
That being said, maybe I'm growing up. I'm starting to care less and even on occasion encourage it. If for every disappointing Cay Tre Soho you were to get two places as clever as Hawksmoor Seven Dials and Goodman in the City it wouldn't be so bad. After all Byron started as a chain, and West Coast burger nirvana In-n-Out is a classic example of one that works. Of the examples given two things remain constantly at a high since the first joint, the quality of the food and the ethos of the serving staff. You can have one without the other, but it's rare. If you work somewhere that sells slop, you're not likely to be the happiest of souls and equally if the establishment consistently pumps out great food, it's more likely (though not guaranteed by any stretch) that the management will be looking out for the staff too.
Marina O'Loughlin said in the Metro, "I'll happily eat in the shonkiest East End kebab joint if the food is great and not dictated by the spreadsheet". Well I'll take this further. I'll happily eat in the chainiest of chains, if the food is north of acceptable and the staff act like they give a shit.
So what of it? Are there any truly 'acceptable' chains? Or are they all wonderful, with me and those like me just utter snobs? Are they any better in the UK or in other countries? And do you have a guilty pleasure, that you'd cross towns and countries to eat at? Answers on a postcard to the usual address...
One man, in an unfashionable part of London, eats out more than he should, and talks about it (occasionally)
Your post stirred the old gray matter a bit. I recently quit working for a place in the city headed by a "star chef". David Chang he ain't, but he's pretty solid. The food we served to guests was so head-and-shoulders above what we were given for staff meal was laughable. -funny how what's good for the goose isn't good for the gander.
ReplyDeleteRegarding your chain question: when I was a kid in California, my friends and I used to buy soft-serve ice cream at a place called Foster's Freeze with our allowance money. The chain is still in existence and still putting a smile on children's faces (and adults) throughout the state!
Awesome, really interesting post and great comment Bea!
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