Balans - Dec 2010

Where: Balans, SohoHow much: Starters for around £6, mains between £10 and £14Come here: any time of the day or night, for a true slice of Soho life


I bloody love Balans. I've been coming here for the last 10 years and feel at times like I've charted my age with the place. When I first came to London, I came here after a night's clubbing for a 4am burger or an 8am fry up, revelling in the fact it was still open and serving better than expected food at a time normally reserved for the plastic hot dog men. A little older and I was coming here for a cheapish (though it didn't feel so at the time) bite to eat with a date from its diner menu. Now it's the perfect spot for a meeting over brunch or an afternoon coffee before meeting clients. It's nothing special, but like thousands of Londoners over the years, it'll always be a place I'll go back to, regardless of any quirks.

The menu is exotic, quixotic and a little bit schizophrenic if I'm honest, much like the clientele on occasion, an odd mix of Soho habitues and a constantly changing crowd well worth a watch. If you've got friends coming in to London from out of town (and especially out of the country) it's a wonderful spot to recommend for people watching. They serve all sorts, so they've got used to catering to all sorts and there's almost no cuisine they don't cover. Starters range from quesadilla to crab cakes, with shredded duck spring rolls, foie gras terrine and smoked salmon blinis all making an appearance. Mains tread the same path with an (excellent) burger snuggling up alongside honey miso salmon, jambalaya and staples such as fillet steak, pie of the day and sausages and mash. It won't ever win an award for the food, but it's all done competently, even though service can be hit and miss. That being said, you don't come here for the food alone. As a go-to that's bound to work for pretty much everyone I'd certainly recommend it. Just go for the experience, sit at the front, and watch Soho go by.