Sunday 11 December 2011

A short review of Copita - D'Arblay Street tapas - Dec 2011


(Relatively) unannounced,  there's another new no reservations tapas-style restaurant in Soho, and what's more shocking is that it isn't part of Russell Norman's Polpo empire. It's got the hallmarks; an 'interesting' space full of nooks, crannies and pillars,  rough and ready 'found' design, low lighting, short interesting menus and ultra cool staff with tattoos,  (caveat, the last one may not be true).   

Spying a window seat and in need of a stomach liner before the first Christmas party of the year, I pop in for a couple of plates. The menu offers around 15 plates, nothing more than £6.  

I go for lightly cooked purple sprouting broccoli, the meat-eaters equivalent to nicorette, its iron tang here matched by soft and gooey blue cheese and a bite of lemon. This was followed by a tiny plate of venison. Beautifully served with Jerusalem artichoke, ceps and spinach, a plate with Michelin aspirations, pushed through a miniaturising machine. Beautifully distinct flavours that combined to form an exquisite whole, focused around the tender, gamey deer, albeit one so small a Liliputian could have brought it down. 
    
There's an interesting wine list too, suggested grape varieties offered in both 'young' and 'mature' forms, leading the caual oenophile to explore. They focus on appropriately pairing many of the lead dishes on the menu too. 
  
It doesn't have the same destination potential as Dehesa or Fino, and lacks the buzzy bar of Barrafina (some would say that's a good thing). For a low key local to pop into for a bottle of wine and a few nibbles however, it's an excellent addition to the neighbourhood. 

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