Indian options for casual Soho lunches - Jan 2012

Central London curryhounds have never had more options for relatively low budget and (occasionally) healthy options to satisfy their cravings. Over the season of goodwill I had a fair amount of lunchtimes out and seeing that the cold snap has finally arrived, a warming lunchtime ruby was a popular option. Here's a selection of my favourite casual curry emporia in and around Soho.


Roti Chai - Portland Mews South
The latest street food joint, this one round the back of Selfridges, to pay a passing nod to the Indian railway cafes and their magpie like borrowing of cultural and culinary influences. Casual table settings and a selection of small plates are ideal for lunchtime sharers. The pick of the bunch are their insanely addictive chicken 'lollipops'. Moist meat pushed up the bone, dipped in a heavily seasoned flour before a deep frier dunking. Served with a soothing dipping sauce, they're the devil's own party food. Freshly cooked samosas and papri chaat, wheaty wafers covered in spicy chickpea and cool yoghurt, also score highly. I wouldn't say it was a healthy option, but you do walk out without feeling like you've drunk a vat of cooking oil.

Moolis - Frith Street

A very quick and very satisfying lunch experience can be found wrapped in the roti rolls of Moolis. A firm favourite of mine, I'm going to miss the densely packed rolls of chicken, beef and goat now I'm no longer in Soho. I've salivated over them at greater length here and in the 18 months subsequently haven't had cause to change my views, despite many repeat visits.

Kati Roll Company - Poland Street

Another street food take out joint, this time on Poland Street. Randomly the first UK outpost of a very small Brooklyn chain, they also specialise in small curried rolls of goodness. They're thinner than the elephant legs you'll get at Moolis and with an amount less salad these definitely aren't a healthy option. Hefty doses of spice stay with you throughout the afternoon, but the minced lamb with egg is a thing of beauty and possibly one of the finest things to munch on as you stride down chilly Soho streets. 

Masala Zone - Marshall Street
A popular mini chain from the same stable as Chutney Mary and Veeryswamy focussing on good value curries and thalis. It's nothing life changing, a decent enough spot for a little bit of what you fancy (and what you know...) Starters are better than the mains in general and the lunch special is worth a look if you're in with a bigger group. 

Dishoom - St Martin's Lane
I wasn't massively impressed when I first went, but enough people are talking about its slightly corporate take on Indian cafe culture for it to be worth a think about. The tourists will be frotting against the windows of Jamie's Italian and so you should be able to get a table here if push comes to shove and you can't persuade your lunch partners any further.