The Sea Cow - Dec 2011

If there's an acceptable face of gentrification then the Sea Cow must surely qualify. A little local fish and chip shop in East Dulwich with the wet fish laid on a shop slab at the front. Bright and cheery, with rough hewn oak communal tables, it's got a design idea behind it, but it doesn't get in the way of the plates and plates of solid reliable meals they churn out. The fish kept fresh by the turnaround, it's a popular spot with the Dulwich mums and a tad noisy early evening and on weekends, crowd control not being a known strength of the middle class parents round here.

Aside from the slightly too clever mushy peas, a rough purée overburdened with mint and oddly sweet, everything here is as you'd expect. Coley and haddock feature on the menu instead of cod, and there are grilled prawns and sea bass for those who don't need their fish encased in batter. Those of us who do will be pleased to know that the batter is excellent, as are the chips. Not in a travel for miles kind of way, but certainly in a best in the vicinity way. There's a short but pleasingly priced wine list, though it's also worth noting that Green & Blue, the excellent little wine bar and shop across the road runs a 'chippage' scheme. The combination of excellent fish and chips alongside some very, very good wines helps you make more of a night out of it, and all of a sudden, it's a reason to travel.